Avant Garde Fashion Design with Kalta Minor Tower Inspiration Using Weaving Techniques

Abstract

This study addresses the problem of how cultural architecture can be translated into avant-garde fashion through a textile manipulation method that functions as both structure and ornament. The objectives were to describe the design process of an avant-garde garment inspired by the Kalta Minor Minaret in Khiva, Uzbekistan, and to evaluate the final garment based on expert assessment. The study employed a design-based approach using the Double Diamond model, consisting of Discover, Define, Develop, and Deliver stages. Data were obtained through visual exploration, moodboard development, design alternatives, technical drawings, garment construction, runway presentation, and expert assessment. Three fashion experts were selected purposively based on their competence in fashion design, garment construction, textile manipulation, and runway presentation. The evaluation used an 18-item rubric covering six aspects: avant-garde silhouette, concept suitability, creativity and innovation, weaving technique application, material and technique, and runway visual appearance. Each item was rated on a five-point scale and interpreted using predetermined score intervals. The architectural characteristics of the Kalta Minor Minaret, including its vertical silhouette, geometric ornamentation, turquoise color identity, and monumental rhythm, were translated into woven bodice structures, sleeves constructed with the smocking technique, an asymmetrical skirt, and decorative finishing details. The final garment achieved an overall score of 252 out of 270 and an overall mean of 4.67, categorized as very good. The highest result was obtained for runway visual appearance, while concept suitability and material-technique aspects indicated areas for refinement. The findings show that the weaving technique can function as a structural and conceptual medium for translating cultural architecture into contemporary avant-garde fashion.