INOVASI TEKNIK SMOCKING PADA BUSANA AVANT-GARDE DENGAN SUMBER INSPIRASI ARSITEKTUR KHOJA AKHROR VALI

Abstract

Penelitian ini bertujuan untuk mendeskripsikan proses penerapan teknik smocking dan hasil jadi busana avant-garde yang terinspirasi dari arsitektur Khoja Akhror Vali. Metode penelitian yang digunakan adalah penelitian deskriptif kuantitatif dengan pendekatan Double Diamond Model yang meliputi tahap discover, define, develop, dan deliver. Pada proses discover, peneliti mencari informasi yang berkaitan dengan arsitektur masjid Khoja Akhror Vali. Tahap define meliputi penyusunan moodboard, penentuan color pallete, dan stilasi motif. Tahap develop mencakup eksperimen pembuatan smocking, serta perancangan dan pembuatan busana avant-garde. Tahap deliver merupakan tahap akhir berupa publikasi atau peragaan  hasil jadi busana avant-garde. Teknik pengumpulan data dilakukan melalui lembar observasi, oleh tiga ahli fashion. Hasil penelitian menunjukkan bahwa penerapan teknik smocking dengan bentuk hexagonal atau segi enam mampu menciptakan tekstur tiga dimensi yang kuat, meningkatkan nilai estetika busana, serta memperkuat karakter busana avant-garde melalui proporsi, keseimbangan, dan pusat perhatian yang jelas. Dengan demikian, hasil akhir busana menampilkan keselarasan antara siluet, volume, dan komposisi yang sesuai dengan sumber inspirasi arsitektur. Penggunaan kombinasi warna toska dan silver dapat memperkuat kesan modern serta mempertegas karakter visual pada desain busana.

Kata kunci: busana avant-garde, manipulating fabric, smocking, arsitektur, Khoja Akhror Vali.

Abstract

This study aims to describe the process of applying the smocking technique and the finished product of avant-garde clothing inspired by the architecture of Khoja Akhror Vali. The research method used is quantitative descriptive research with the Double Diamond Model approach which includes the stages of discover, define, develop, and deliver. In the discover process, the researcher seeks information related to the architecture of the Khoja Akhror Vali mosque. The define stage includes the preparation of a mood board, determining the color palette, and stylizing the motifs. The develop stage includes experiments in making smocking, as well as designing and making avant-garde clothing. The deliver stage is the final stage in the form of publication or demonstration of the finished product of avant-garde clothing. The data collection technique was carried out through observation sheets, by three fashion experts. The results of the study show that the application of the smocking technique with a hexagonal shape is able to create a strong three-dimensional texture, increase the aesthetic value of clothing, and strengthen the character of avant-garde clothing through clear proportions, balance, and center of attention. Thus, the final garment displays a harmony of silhouette, volume, and composition, reflecting the architectural inspiration. The use of turquoise and silver enhances the modern feel and emphasizes the visual character of the design.